Sunday, January 31, 2010

Day to Day

I wrote this in the middle of January....






For the last month, I´ve been living in Cholila, Chubut, Argentina. I´ve been living with a sweet couple, Dario and Laura who just got married this month. Laura is a sweet and softly strong porteña who moved to Patagonia when she fell in love with her rock climbing instructor, Dario. She left behind a seemingly steady job at a bank for this life on the mountain, for this life closer to the earth here in Cholila, Argentina. Dario, her partner, is a fiercely warm hearted Mapuche man born and raised here in Cholila. A number of years ago, Dario left his job as a rock climbing instructor and with his love, returned to the land of Darios grandfather and ancestors to reclaim this land.






I´ve been working with them, helping them with their farm and building a greenhouse out of natural materials for the development of an ´ecolodge´of sorts. See the interesting thing here, is that Laura and Dario, like an overwheming majority of people living here, have been a part of a movement to kick international coorporations and mining compainies out of these sacred mountains. But people need to live, and often communities say yes to mining because they are despriate to feed their familes. So the movement agaist the mines and the multinationals has focused on development and sustainability of the people as well as kicking the corporations out. And so Laura and Dario, are working on developing sustainable tourism, that supports the preservation of the land, the water, the environment, and the lives of the people here too.







My time here has been such an amazing journey--waking up every day to the sounds of nature, the birds chirping, the sun shining or the soft sound of rain, the strong winds blowing through the trees has been a tremendous gift. To rise each day and really feel the earth beneath my feet has allowed me to feel humanity--allowed me to feel myself as a human and my connection with the land.








The electricity we use to play music and light the house is collected from a windmill on the top of the mountain, harnessing the fierce energy of the winds of Patagonia. We work to collect the water we use from the lake. We carry the (only) gas we use to heat the stove and water for bathing up the mountain. It´s through the sensations in my body and the ache in my legs and hands at the end of the day, that I can feel my footprint on this earth.








All of the trash we create, we burn or we reuse. All the plastic gets compacted into plastic bottles and along with cans and glass bottles that can´t be recycled here are used as insulation for the house we are creating out of Barro, or Adobe, or clay, straw, horse poop, and sand. Everything organic goes into thye compost and everything else (paper products) is burned. And let me tell you, the act of burning my toilet paper has forced me to even consider the amount of toilet paper that I´m using.








The days are very long here now as it´s summer. The sun comes up around 5am and sets after 10pm so we work slowly. We plant seeds with the rhythm of the moon and collect veggies from the garden when they´re ready and share them as we cook for each other. We make bread from scratch when it´s too rainy to work outside. We share the days and nights with talks of revolution, the abolition of land ownership. Visions of the world that can be swirl in the wind here--the world on the edge of which we are standing.





The wind whispers, ¨this world has already begun¨.







The house, the lake, the sun













View from the mountaintop, where the condors fly..




Laura and Dario smiling in the sunshine






...home sweet home...

Sunday, December 6, 2009

Rembering



































Today I had the opportunity to visit the Penninsulua Valdéz just east of Puerto Madryn, in Patagonia. The Penninsulua is home to many different animals and birds including penguins, seals, sea lions, birds, guanacos, rheas, dolphins, orcas, and the Southern Right Whale. The water in the gulf of the peninsulua is several degrees warmer than the ocean and so has become the breeding grounds for many different animals including the endangered southern right whale.
The Penninsula has become a national park for Argentina and is a UNESCO World heritige site. The land is become protected from poachers and whalers and over the last decade or so has become a sanctuary among many different animals in the Southern Hemisphere, seeking a safe place to bring life into the world.
I was blessed with the opportunity to get on a boat for an hour and a half to try our luck at seeing the whales. With about 25 other people, I strapped on a lifejacket and climbed aboard the boat. We set out into the gulf. The sun was high but the wind blew it´s heat off our skin as we soared across the water. As we got further from the shore I began quietly singing, a song for Yemoja, the Orisha of the Ocean and the big momma of all life in the Yoruban tradition. I felt chills up and down my body as I was calling out to her. Then as I was quitely singing, my heart leaped as I saw two whales blowing air out of their blowholes off in the distance, ¨¡Mira! ¡Hay dos ballenas!¨, I exclaimed pointing them out to the passengers aboard the ship. The air seemed to get warmer.
We kept riding and the drew closer to the shoreline and the driver of the boat, Jose, spotted a pair of whales about 75 meters away. He quickly cut the engine. The pair surfaced a bit closer to the boat and Jose pointe out that it was a mother and baby Southern Right Whale. The pair swam closer and circled around the boat a bit. I couldn´t beleive how close they were! The kept coming closer and closer as if they were checking us out as much as us them. Then the baby and mother circled right underneath the boat. I was speechless and in awe, snapping pictures as the baby rolled underneath the boat giving us a good look at his whole body. I could almost reach down from the boat and touch his skin. He swam off a bit and dove deeper into the water with his mother, flipping his tail up on his way down! Almost as if he was showing off!
I was utterly speechless in awe at how close I was to such magnificent creatures. I connected with my center and opened my heart to listening.
I whispered a prayer.
A prayer of gratitude and thanks to the beautiful momma for sharing her self and her baby with us all.
A prayer of gratitude for her perserverence and for her strong spirit.
A prayer that we humans may learn from her strong spirit of mothering.
As I whispered the words, she surfaced and through her strong puff of air through her blowhole, came the word ¨love¨.
Love is remembering where we come from. Love is remembering that divine spark from which we all came. Love is how we remember.
Today I fell in love with a whale and her baby.
Today I can remember.










Tuesday, November 17, 2009

Fire and Water

I have a dirty secret to admit, a confession of sorts. I´ve been guilty of taking long showers my whole life. I grew up swimming in the pool, the river, the creek, the lake, whatever body of water I could get in, I would. When I was young I had this fantasy that if I spent enough time in the water I might actually become a mermaid or a dolphin. I´ve always loved the water, its cleansing and refreshing energy. The way gravity shifts when you´re inside it. They way you emerge from the water renewed after a good swim. So naturally as a good environmentalist, my guilty pleasure is taking long showers.

I have been here in Cordoba for over a week and I cant stop thinking about how many long showers I´ve taken in my life. There has been a drought here for over a year. It´s terrible, people don´t have potable water to drink, they can only buy drinkable water. And you can only buy drinkable water if you have the money to buy drinkable water. They say the water in the city coming out of the tap is drinkable but still expensive. In the outlying towns, water is being rationed. Many houses don’t have running water at all for days at a time.

This week I had the honor of attending a local indigenous ceremony to pray for rain and healing. The shaman leading the ceremony brought coals from the fire into a outdoor-indoor room and placed different plants on the fire. Each plant had a different medicine and as the smoke of the medicine permeated the room, I heard the fire crying. For as much as I could keep my eyes open, I looked into the fire and saw the faces of elders, old men. They were crying. The fire was crying. I couldn’t understand why but accepted the sadness and tried to listen deeper.

Elder Sister Dorothy Stang, I felt you in there too. I felt you crying with the fire. I tried to ask you, why the sadness, but was overwhelmed by the depth of grief and so I again leaned into it.

I emerged from the ceremony feeling for the first time truly connected to the land here. My feet planted on the ground, my roots beginning to spread their way through the hard dry dirt here in Cordoba Argentina, I felt my mind wander to why? Why is the earth suffering so much here? Why has father sky refused to share his water with the earth? Why have the creatures gone so long without water here? Why this drought? Why now?

On Friday night, the rain finally came. It began with a dust storm that swept across the land knocking things over, pushing the animals back into the earth and the people into their homes. The wind brought the smell of rain and I felt my spirits lift as the air became moist. I saw lightning on the horizon as the sun was setting sparking hope in my heart. When the rain began, I sat out on the porch and felt tears fill my eyes at the trickle slowly began. The rains came faster and stronger and I felt myself praying for more rain. Praying and crying I rocked on the porch and the rains came harder. That night I fell asleep to the soft gentle sound of rain on the roof. I slept like a baby and awoke with hope in my heart as I saw that the leaves on the tree behind the house had opened up. I felt connected to the earth and joy as I admired the trees new bright green color.

As I opened the paper today, the headlines made my heart drop. The rain, while a relief, was not enough. We need more rain if the rationing will end. Again this question of why and why now rang out in my heart? As I turned the pages of the paper, I read a report of the massive deforestation that has happened here in the state of Cordoba over the last 20 years. In 1990 there was original forest over a sweeping majority of the county. Today those numbers have dwindled to only 11% of the country. And how did those numbers dwindle? Not through logging, the ever popular method of forest destruction in North America, but through forest fires.

Chills ran up and down my body as I was reminded why the land owners paid to kill Elder Sister Dorothy Stang in 2003. She had recently reported one of the land owners as burning large swaths of the Amazon for his ranching business, which carries with it a very hefty fine. It was this action that put her organizing over the edge and many say was the reason he put the hit out on her life. These methods of slash and burn are the same tactics that ranchers are using here in Argentina to clear land.

Last year, 95% of the forest fires in Argentina were intentionally set. 95%!!!!

I now know why the fire was crying.

Please hold prayers for rain and for water here in Cordoba in your prayers. Please hold prayers for healing for the exploitation of fire in South America. ¨The death of the forest is the end of our lives¨ is the slogan of the movement for the forest in Brazil and was a belief that Sr. Dot held close to her heart. After my time here in Cordoba, I can see now how this is true.

In the words of an old pagan chant,

May we rise with the fire of freedom.
Truth is the fire that will burn our chains
And we can stop the fire of destruction
Healing is the fire running through our veins.
Healing is the fire running through our veins.
Healing is the fire running through our veins.

Blessed Be.